Growing your own garden is a great way to ensure your family is eating healthy food! It is also a great activity to include your children in and teach them some important life skills. Germinating your own seeds may sound incredibly daunting. But believe it or not, you do not need a green thumb to be able to be successful at growing your own plants! Below I share some simple and easy tips and tricks that will guarante a good seed germination rate. And whether you just want to grow your own herbs or have a single flower pot in your living room or start a whole vegtebale garden, these tips will ensure your dream is a successful one. So happly planting!
- Ideal Soil Conditions:
- Soil Temperature- A cold soil will prolong germination and decrease the germination rate. The ideal soil temperature should be 70-85 degrees F. Heating mats can be incredibly useful and great for increasing your germination rate. Just remember to turn off the heat once the seeds have germinated. After germination, it is okay for the growing temperature to be about 10 degrees cooler than the germination temperature. Soil temperature is important to keep in mind if you are growing your seeds in a cool basement or cellar. Once germination takes place, the seedlings require 12-16hrs of intense light/day. The light source should be around 4-6in. above the plants otherwise you can get very leggy seedlings.
- Soil Moisture- The biggest thing to keep in mind with soil moisture is that it is better to underwater than overwater the seeds!! I have made this mistake so many times. Overwatering can very quickly introduce mold, mildew and other fungi to the soil and cause, what it called, dampening off. Dampening off occurs when a seed germinates well and then starts to yellow and wilt due to overwatering. Because seeds require oxygen, an overly waterlogged soil can prevent the seed from utilizing and processing the oxygen. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings.
- Some tips are to use a misting spray bottle for watering instead of pouring water onto the seeds and then covering the seed trays with plastic wrap to create a greenhouse effect. Note: It is better to water more frequently with a mist than to dump water on the seeds once a week or so.
- A good rule of thumb is the soil should feel like a cotton towel that was first dampened and then all additional moisture rung out.
- If you are having trouble keeping your soil moist, you can sprinkle Vermiculite Sand on the top of the soil to help hold in moisture.
- Bottom watering is a great method for even and consistent watering. This prevents splashing out your seed or spashing around fungus by pouring water on top. This is done by pouring tap water into the tray and placing your seed pots in it for 20-30mins. Make sure to remove your seeds pots from the water after that time or you will have root rot.
- Newer VS Older Seeds: Older seeds will take longer to germinate. If you are seed saving, make you’re your seeds are stored in a cool, dark, dry place. Some people store their seeds in sealed ziplocks in the freezer- this can greatly increase their lifespan beyond the typical 2yrs.
- Wild VS Domesticated Seeds: Domesticated seeds are seeds that people have experimented and consciously selected to grow for certain climates/conditions. Domesticated seeds have a higher germination rate.
- Cold Stratification: This is the process where the dormancy of a seed is broken in order to promote germination. The introduction of cold temperatures closely mimics the conditions that nature uses to do this. Some seeds require colder temperatures to germinate well such as lavender, many flowers varieties, asparagus, chives, cilantro, oregano, thyme, wild rose and wild strawberry. To do this, place 1/4c. of sand and peat moss in a bowl, add seeds and water -enough to be able to make a ball with the sand/water mixture. Place in a plastic bag/container and put it into the refrigerator for 10 days-1mo before planting. If they are sprouting, then immediately remove and plant.
- Scarification: This is the process of opening up and penetrating the hard outer shell of some seeds. Not all seeds require this process. This mimics what happens in nature when animals chew or digest or step on the seeds of a plant. Flowers and legumes do well with this process. Some ways to do this are rubbing the seed on sandpaper, using a knife or metal file, soaking the seeds in hot water, or cutting the edge of the seed with nail clippers.
- Soaking: Some seeds such as corn and beans that are often prone to fungus and rot do well with soaking before planting. This jumpstarts the germination process and thus decreases the time the soil has to create any fungus or rot. It is done by merely filling a bowl with tap water as hot as it will get, and soaking the sees for 12-24hrs but no more than 48hrs or you will drown the seeds. Some larger seeds do well with scarification before soaking that way the water can penetrate the seed coating. After soaking, the seeds can then be planted.
- Planting Depth: If you plant your seeds too deep, you run the risk of them germinating but then be too tired/weak to pop through to the top of the soil and as a result, die in the soil. For small seeds, and good depth is ¾ of a pinky fingernail. For bigger seeds, a good depth is ½ inch.
- Hardening: To increase the likelihood for successful transplantation for your seedlings, you need to gradually harden them. This is done by gradually acclimating the seedlings to the outdoors. Start by placing them outside on cloudy days or in the shade for a few hours, and then bring them inside. Gradually work them into more light, and after a week or so, increase their time in direct sunlight. The use of an oscillating fan indoors during seed growing can also help create sturdy stems that do well in windy climates.
